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After reading a few threads here and seeing the fruits of Toddstock's labor I figured I ask for a little help on resawing.

Ok I have the 14" bandsaw with a riser and Carter rolloer guides... so far so good. I've played at resawing and got a useable set but I wasn't real pleased with the way it came out (wavey cuts).

The saw I believe is set up pretty well the goofy cuts was more due to the loose nut on the end of the board than saw trouble. I used a point type fence a 3/8" blade and went way too fast.. so you get what you get. I'm gonna build a flat fence and try that with a 3/4" blade.

Here's where you resaw gurus come in. How about a quick school on how to do it and why to do it that way.

Pics are always a bonus!

Thnx

Ronn,

I always had better luck with a straight fence. It is important to make sure that the blade, the fence, and the table are all aligned properly. The blade and fence must be as parallel as you can get them, and they both must be perpendicular to the table.

Any imperfections in the wood will get translated to the cut. I like to do a light skim sand between cuts if it needs it.

I seriously recommend the Iturra Bladerunner blades (1/2") for your saw. They are thin-kerfed (.032") and cut very well. Also the Woodslicer blades from Highland Hardware in Atlanta are great.

As far as speed, let the blade do the work. Go slowly, and get a feel for when it's cutting well. If it's squeeling, you're wither going too fast, or the blade is getting dull. Don't rush.

Tension of the blade is also important, so make sure you get the blade tension adjusted to blade manufacturer's specs. Too loose, and you'll get a bowed cut....if you need to replace the spring with a high-tension spring, they are available from Iturra Design, or at Woodcraft etc.

I also recommend using push blocks, and not your hands for feeding the wood into the saw. Blocks like these are great.

Safety first! Wear eye protection and hearing protection if you're running a dust collector too. And a dust mask is important as well.

Don Williams39045.901875

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

I would recommend to not use a 3/4" blade on 14" wheels. You are going to fatigue the metal and cause a premature break.

I just resawed 2 imbuya and 10 curly mahog sets the other day on the same 20 buck blade. I use a 1/2-3T on my 3/4 hp delta 14 with riser block, and get them from a local place called R&D bandsaws - he exhibits at most of the cdn wood shows, and I have nad nothing but these ever on my saw - they are cheap and work awesome. I also use a Mule badsaw fence, and have a modded add on on high fence made from baltic birch ply - the modded part comes frm the fact it is U shaped in the vertical plane, such that the whole blade guide assembly can drop down into it and I have about a 5 inch high fence, but on either side of the cutout its about 8 inches or so high for backs and top resawing. The fence is set square to the table and the blade, the saw has rpetty much no drift - the blade and wheels are set so that the blade leaves the upper wheelin the middle of the tire - thus it hits the table square to the fence.

Two of my students were in awe, as they have 14 inch saws as well, and they arent having much luck resawing - when they watched me with ease rip off set after set, they all wanted to know how I got mine to wrok so well. Set up is one thing, but I believe the blade makes all the difference.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I am also running a 14" w/riser block and Carter guides. I use a straight 9" fence.

I have had really great results with Woodslicer blades. I have used Timberwolfs(pretty good),Olsen All Pro(fair),Lennox(fair). In terms of smoothness and thin kerf and much lower losses. I go with Woodslicers they are great blades. Thin kerf seems to really reduce heat,drag, and generally cuts better. The saw has to be tuned well though as the thin kerf blades don't appreciate a poor set up or being forced.

Peace,Rich

here tis ... basicaly just cut out a section that allows the blade assembly to drop in ... easy enough - I got tired of having to cut sides with a 8 inch high fence, or backs with a 5 inch fence, so this solves the problem .. it has the ability to do both, or I just take it out to do 2 inch stuff with the Mule.

R&D uses either industrial or swedish steel on the blades - the swedish stock went up in price, so they are the same price now, so I buy the industrials, the industrial blades have hardened edges front and back - they run true, and if you buy more than 3 blades, they give 15 points off ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Thnx for all the info guys. I have and plan to use a 1/2 4t blade. I'll also pick up a couple of other mentioned to try out.

So I guess the secret is a well tuned saw and patience.

Thnx again

What is the thinnest piece of stock you can work with and get at least two usable pieces from?

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Aoibeann

Thanks Todd.

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Aoibeann

Just want to throw in my thanks as well for the great tips shared on this thread. Although I've done well with resawing so far, I learned stuff here that should make it go even better and easier. Thanks!

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/